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2018 Grand Picasso Flair motorised boot lid / tailgate not motoring

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Author Post
JoeT_999   
Wed Jan 31 2024, 12:46pm
Member No: #54667
Joined: Sep 21 2019
Location: Kent
Hello,

I have a 2018 Grand Picasso flair with the motorised tailgate.

It’s stopped being motorised and just 3 beeps when you try to open or shut it on the buttons.
I’ve changed the battery to no avail, so now I’m on to changing the motorised arms.

They are easy to take off, but is it just a case of plugging in a new one of the same part number and away you go? Or is it the ever more common case of you can’t change anything electrical without the dealer having to program it to your car.

Has anyone had the same problem (I would have thought so) and was it just a case of getting a new motorised strut and plugging it in?

The new battery stung me for £230 so I don’t what to keep chucking money at it and it not sorting the problem. If it’s got to go to the dealers it’s got to go. The tailgate is easy to open but takes a serious amount of force to close.

Thanks for the help.
Joe
BRT   
Wed Jan 31 2024, 08:24pm
Member No: #61111
Joined: Aug 24 2023
Location: Europe
Isn't there an option to turn this off in the vehicle settings? Have a look in there!
JoeT_999   
Thu Feb 01 2024, 01:08am
Member No: #54667
Joined: Sep 21 2019
Location: Kent
Yeah, I’ve tired that, it would have been too easy.
I think I’m going to have to try and get a diagbox on it to see what fault codes it gives. It looks like the system has its own ECU which could be the problem not the arms. Long and short is I’m guessing unless I find someone with the same problem or a diagbox. Then at least it’s an educated guess rather than a complete guess.
Or of course the dealer.
MatthewJBD   
Thu Feb 01 2024, 07:32am
Member No: #61601
Joined: Jan 26 2024
Location: Oxfordshire
How did the arms sound before? Did you notice a whining or struggle back when it worked?

I'm assuming you've tried the foot sensor too?

£230 for a car battery??
JoeT_999   
Thu Feb 01 2024, 08:43am
Member No: #54667
Joined: Sep 21 2019
Location: Kent
Yeah, stopped working on a Friday needed battery on the Saturday and got taken for a ride by euro car parts. I was working away on the Monday and had get it changed before I went as the boot is almost unopenable. Tried the price guarantee they proudly offer and they told me they won’t price match it for no reason other that just no.

The left arm sounded a bit rougher than the right arm but nothing to write home about. I’ve actually tried a new left arm and it didn’t solve the issue. I don’t know if you need to do a battery reset after changing such a part. Maybe I should try the new arm again do a battery BSI rest.

Not tried the foot sensor, but I can’t see that working pans all other options not. That would be ironic. The least reliable method is the only one still working.
danlat1415   
Thu Feb 01 2024, 12:22pm
Member No: #48933
Joined: Jul 17 2017
Location: UK
Whenever you replace the car battery, you need to do a BSI reset.

This may resolve you problem.

If not, you can replace the Boot ECU - go for same part number.
It doesn't need programming to the car, will just be a straight replace.
If you still get 3 beeps after replacing, then do a BSI reset after replacing the ECU and it should work.


danlat1415   
Thu Feb 01 2024, 12:39pm
Member No: #48933
Joined: Jul 17 2017
Location: UK
For the purposes of this post I will use the term 'multiplexed' to refer to different data networks and protocols including for example:
VAN - Vehicle Area Network
CAN - Controller Area Network
LIN - Local Interconnect Network

On modern vehicles, the data networks can remain active for some time after the engine is switch off and longer if doors are opened and equipment is being operated. There is always the possibility that disconnecting a wiring block to an ECU that uses a multiplexed data connection can result in the ECU being left in an 'awakened' state, without having been told to 'sleep' by the controlling ECU like a BSI.

Depending on the type of ECU, data parameters may not be written to memory if power (as in the battery being disconnected) is suddenly removed. Examples of this are the suspension ECU (on a Hydractive Citroen), the fuel injection ECU, Telematics and Head Units, Auto Gear Box, as well as leaving electro valves in a certain position (EGR for example). Although most of these are robust enough to correct themselves when the power is reapplied, it can sometimes cause 'glitches' in the data network when the ECUs try and reinitialise.

So very much like a PC should never be shut down by pulling the mains out, the same can be said for a car's controlling computer and network of connected ECUs.



Procedure:
- Open bonnet and driver's side window (the window is left open for emergency access reasons only whilst battery is disconnected and to enable switching on of the sidelights)

- Ensure all doors are closed and remove key from the ignition (do not leave the key in the ignition as the transponder circuit will detect the key and this can prevent the networks from sleeping).


Wait for 5 minutes,
- Don't press any buttons, open any doors or use the remote key fob during this time.

- Disconnect the vehicle battery negative lead and do NOT let it reattach or touch the battery negative terminal post again (use some cloth or other non-conductive material as a barrier). If it touches, the whole process needs to be repeated as you have effectively started the wake up procedure if it touches the terminal.

A) If applicable, now undertake any work or operations you are planning that needs the battery disconnected, OR:
B) If just resetting the BSI, wait 5 minutes whilst the negative terminal is disconnected.


Reconnection:
- Ensure all doors and tailgate are shut (if you have been doing any work on the car).


For Keyless Ignition / Stop Start Vehicles only:
- For these systems, when reconnecting the battery, ensure the fob is not within 2-3 metres of the car perimeter until the time of reconnecting the battery has lapsed.
Reconnect the vehicle battery.

- Wait a further 3 minutes (do not open doors).
Reach in through the open window and switch on the side lights only.


For Keyless Ignition / Stop Start Vehicles only:
- With the Fob in the car or in the Fob Reader, press the Start Stop button without pressing any pedals. That will switch the ignition on only.


For Keyless Ignition / Stop Start Vehicles only:
- Press the Start Stop button again, without touching any pedals to switch the ignition off.
- Remove the Keyless fob from the reader through the window, then lock the car using the sensor on the door handle or the button on the fob. Now unlock the car either using the sensor on the door handle or the fob.
- Now open door, start the engine and check there are no errors etc.
- Switch off your side lights
JoeT_999   
Thu Feb 01 2024, 05:56pm
Member No: #54667
Joined: Sep 21 2019
Location: Kent
The boot stopped working before the battery swap. So I now know it wasn’t the old battery stopping the boot as a new battery has not fixed the issue. I followed the above procedure when I changed the battery so the BSi reset was done then. What I didn’t do I reset the system when i installed the new arm. So I might try that tomorrow, if that doesn’t work I may take a punt on a used ECU as they don’t seem to be that expensive.
 

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