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Engine oil additives - Liqui Moly CeraTec

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danlat1415   
Tue Jan 07 2020, 09:42am
Member No: #48933
Joined: Jul 17 2017
Location: UK
Has anyone used any engine oil additives on their C4 Picasso?

I've got a 6 years old diesel (63 plate) and I've been looking at the Liqui Moly CeraTac;

- Click Here -


it has really good reviews everywhere, and the only limited negatives reviews I've found are people with other issues on their cars and were hoping for miracles.



I just wondered if anyone had any experience with their Ciroen.
iscom   
Tue Jan 07 2020, 02:43pm
Member No: #20936
Joined: Jul 21 2011
Location: Ireland Fermanagh & Galway
I have been using CATACLEAN Diesel Fuel Additive Cat Cleaner Injector Cleaner use it once a year
danlat1415   
Tue Jan 07 2020, 03:46pm
Member No: #48933
Joined: Jul 17 2017
Location: UK
Thanks.
I've also been using a fuel additive;
Wynn's Formula Gold Diesel
- Click Here -


I find these work really well.
I had a fault on one injector recently, ran the car with some premium diesel and the fuel additive and the fault cleared up and saved hundreds on garage costs.


I've not used an oil additive on the Citroen yet, so just wondered if anyone had and recommends any, or to stay away from any?
Richard_C   
Wed Jan 08 2020, 06:16am
Member No: #46470
Joined: Oct 11 2016
Location: Cambridge
I can see that its worth trying a fuel system cleaner if you have a problem, I can't see any point in unnecessary additives otherwise.

Back in the day, monograde SAE 30 engine oils, additives might stretch the service intervals from 2 or 3000 miles to a bit more, and might help with reducing the regular carbon build up from piston ring oil blow-by which meant you had to chisel away at valve stems etc. to 'de-coke' high mileage engines. Even RedeX fuel additive might have helped, upper cylinder lubricant when a cold start with thick oil might have starved the rockers and upper parts of the bore of lubricant for a few seconds.

But then, along came multigrades like Duckhams 20/50 which had detergents in them and solved most of the problems including the need for winter/summer grade change. Petrol and diesel now comes with all kinds of additives, stabilisers, anti-ash, solvents and detergents . When was the last time you got out your little sucker-ended stick and grinding paste and re-lapped your inlet and exhaust valves or fitted new stem seals? Used a starting handle because the oil was so thick at minus-whatever that the starter motor wouldn't turn over?

And then along came super slick very low viscosity semi-synthetic and synthetic oils with all kinds of tricks to keep your engine running nicely. Add that to much tighter component manufacturing tolerances and automated engine assembly the world has changed.

With emission regulations and fuel consumption/engine efficiency being the 'make or break' for manufacturers in most parts of the world, they have a vested interest in making sure the oils they specify do the job really well in the first place. Those oils cost a lot, but it's now a piece of the engineering puzzle not just gloop out the ground refined as cheaply as possible. Citroen extended warranty, if added on before the 3 year one expires, can be bought for cars up to 10 years and 100k miles so they have a reasonable expectation that an engine will last that long with the standard recommended lubricants.

If I had say a Ford 100E with side valve engine and winter monograde oil I might be tempted by additives but since the mid 1960's the question to ask is "why?", unless you are trying to solve a particular problem.

My Hillman Hunter did 167k miles (and died), the first BX did about 125k and running nicely when sold, the SAAB 9-5 (on semi-synthetic oil) was sold running nicely with 110k on it, the Synergie with 120k. All except the SAAB serviced myself. Never used an oil additive just oil changes as per schedule with decent stuff.
routemaster1   
Wed Jan 08 2020, 06:47am
Member No: #574
Joined: Jul 08 2007
Location: Dorset
As far as I am concerned, PSA specify a low SAPs oil, which should means that the turbo should last (our C3 HDi has done over 120,000 miles with no turbo issues) and there should be fewer issues with sensors getting covered in muck. PSA go further than recommending you do not add additives, they specifically say that additives should not be used. They may do some good, they may make no difference, but they could actually cause harm. No additives for me!
vexorg   
Wed Jan 08 2020, 07:35am
Member No: #48843
Joined: Jul 06 2017
Location: Scotland
Slick50 has been around for years claiming to reduce friction.

I'm not saying I'd use any of these additives, but remember that car makers dont want the engine to last "too" long, otherwise you;d not buy new cars.
wunny   
Wed Jan 08 2020, 12:23pm
Member No: #42824
Joined: Nov 29 2015
Location: Cardiff
I used Slick 50 on my Volvo 740 Turbo. Sold it with 250,000 miles on the clock, not because of engine problems, but a leaking heater matrix causing damp inside the car and the head lining fell down. Also used it on my 1998 Honda Hornet, which I retired @ 111,000 miles, still going strong.

Not used anything on either of my Citroens though.
iscom   
Thu Jan 09 2020, 05:22am
Member No: #20936
Joined: Jul 21 2011
Location: Ireland Fermanagh & Galway
Re: I don't see the point if your not having any problems. . . . Prevention is better than a cure. . .to me it helps to keep the fuel system clean so you don't have any problems.. .plus better MPG
 

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