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DIY timing belt replacement step by step guide C4 1.6 HDI (DV6TED4) |
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Zedd
 
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   Member No: #19214
Joined: Apr 11 2011Location: Harties South Africa |
Good day Folks I just finished replacing my timing belt. For all the diy enthusiasts, I took some nice pics just to show how easy it actually is. Didn't need any special tools either. Note that I purchased the original coolant pump, belt kit that contains a new tensioner, roller guide and the belt itself, from Citroen. Here goes......  1)Make sure you support the front of the engine by jacking it up slightly with a good, stable trolley jack, until the weight is relieved off the front engine mount. 2)Remove front engine mount. 3)Remove top cam pulley cover.  4)Remove mounting bracket from engine.  5)Remove fan belt, I used an angle grinder disk locking spanner, to lever and remove the tension off the fan belt tensioner. 6)Rotate engine until hole in flywheel aligns with hole in bottom of engine where the gearbox is bolted to engine. I had an assistant who held a no 8 allen key in the hole and when the hole in the flywheel aligned with the allen key, it slotted in, locking the crankshaft. Never reverse the rotation, only rotate in engine rotation direction. 7)Remove the crankshaft bolt, fan belt and remove the fan belt pulley, while assistant is holding allen key in place to prevent slippage, 8)Remove lower timing belt cover.  9)Remove the belt protector and speed sensor at the bottom of the crank shaft. I couldn't get a good shot but they are either side close to the bottom of the crankshaft timing belt pulley. 10)Replace crankshaft bolt so you can rotate engine again and unlock the flywheel. 11)Lock these pulley's. I used a M8 bolt and two 5mm drill bits, by rotating engine very slowly until all three holes align. Note that this can be difficult took me about half an hour.  12)Release tensioner and remove the timing belt. 13)Remove tensioner, roller guide and coolant pump then install new ones.  14)Feed new belt pulling it tightly, working in an anticlockwise direction. Starting between the coolant pump and the tensioner.  15)Tension belt with tensioner using an allen key untill the hole aligns between or in the middle of the fork in the back of the tensioner. There is a pin that keeps it locked in the approximate tension position, when the tensioner is supplied or purchased. This pin must be removed before installing the timing belt, then adjustment must be made to the same position. And the pin doesn't go back, its only there during supply or delivery. I have taken the old tensioner and demonstrated how its supplied and where to set it once it is on the engine. Even when the tension is unadjusted, meaning the tensioner is loose, the belt will fit over its pulley's rather tightly.  Tension like this, once tensioner is back on engine.  16)Remove locking pins and you're good to go replacing everything else, which is the reversal of the "stripping" process. 17)Rotate the engine by the crankshaft bolt a couple of times just to make sure everything runs freely. 18)Don't forget to refill the coolant. The easiest way to do this is to have an assistant pour in the coolant until you no longer see any bubbles coming out the bleed screw, then you lock the screw while assistant continues to fill till correct level. After you drive for some distance, the coolant will continue to bleed and the low coolant indicator will come on, then just top up might only take another pint. That's it Folks.  This is only a guide, if you attempt it, be it on your own peril, I take no responsibility if something goes wrong, make sure that if you do, mechanical experience is strongly advised. 
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Dave_Retired.
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   Member No: #1
Joined: Aug 07 2006Location: Northumberland |
Another great tutorial which I'm sure will help others. I have created a downloadable .pdf from it which is now available: - Click Here - |
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bostock2000
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 Member No: #31643
Joined: Jul 14 2013Location: cornwall |
Absolutely great tutorial hope any future probs can be so easy to follow and resolve as this one. | ||||
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Michel
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Member No: #33932
Joined: Jan 21 2014Location: Belgium |
Hello, thanx for the nice manual. I have a question about the tensioner pulley. The inner part of the tensioner that has the allan key slot, the red arrow part, can move independent of the part circled in blue. I can move it with no force at all. Should it be like that? When i pull the pinn out that is used for storage, does it matter in which position the red arrow part is in? Should it be in position like in picture A or B or in between? Or does that not matter at all?  I never seen a tensioner like this one and it is not explained in the car manufacturer manual. These pictures are of position A and B taken from the front and back of the pulley. Please advice. Thanks in advance. Best regards. |
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Dave_Retired.
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Member No: #1
Joined: Aug 07 2006Location: Northumberland |
I thought that the actual tutorial above explains what to do? | ||||
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Michel
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Member No: #33932
Joined: Jan 21 2014Location: Belgium |
The tutorial above says to pull the pin out before installing the belt. But in what position should the inner part (red arrow) be when u pull the pin out? That i dont know. I can rotate the inner part 360° with the pin still in it. |
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Zedd
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Member No: #19214
Joined: Apr 11 2011Location: Harties South Africa |
There is a position pin for the slot, you can slide the tensioner over the stud with the slot over a pin. The slot should point at around 8 o clock, thats where the pin is located. Because the tensioner hole, for the main stud that locks the tensioner is offset, and you start to rotate the allen key it will start to press against the belt picking up the tension, once the belt is relatively tight you continue until the small hole at the side overlaps the slot. Then you tighten the main nut on the stud. Zedd |
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COLVERT
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 Member No: #6926
Joined: Jan 06 2009Location: France. Loire valley. (retired ) |
You leave the pin where it is. It is removed AFTER the locking nut to the pulley is tightened. The pulley is on an eccentric. You turn it Anti-clockwise with the allen key to first remove any slack in the belt as it runs round all the pulleys. Then you lock it in place. Then when you remove the pin you are left with the CORRECT TENSION that Citroen intended the belt to run at. The question you must ask yourself is--Why is the pin there--- if you take it out to fit it ????? It is a really handy HOW-TO but needs to be amended.-----------( sorry. Lol. ) |
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COLVERT
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Member No: #6926
Joined: Jan 06 2009Location: France. Loire valley. (retired ) |
Admin Dave wrote ... Another great tutorial which I'm sure will help others. I have created a downloadable .pdf from it which is now available: - Click Here - Mr Admin Dave ,sir. Could you please read the information on the attached pic please and amend the How-To as the information with reference to the locking pin is wrong and could prove dangerous to anyone who follows the advice given. COLVERT. PS. This is the info supplied with the C4 tensioner. The pic is slightly different but the method of fitting is exactly the same. See my previous post above please.  |
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COLVERT
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Member No: #6926
Joined: Jan 06 2009Location: France. Loire valley. (retired ) |
Michel wrote ... The tutorial above says to pull the pin out before installing the belt. But in what position should the inner part (red arrow) be when u pull the pin out? That i dont know. I can rotate the inner part 360° with the pin still in it. The tutorial is wrong. Pin stays in. |
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