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C4 - DS4 Owners :: Forums :: Coupe and Hatch Pre 2011 cars :: Technical Questions

Brake switch and additional loom for C4 VTR+ with ESP/ABS warning light

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wired00   
Tue Jan 08 2013, 06:47pm
Member No: #28852
Joined: Jan 08 2013
Location: Sydney
Regarding the guide - I can't figure out how to replace the loom/wire on a 2008 c4 hatch. I've swapped out the switch no problem. but the actual loom disappears up behind the fuse box along with a larger main wiring harness. This is a RHS model. I can't actually find where it plugs in at all it seems I'll have to use a torx screwdriver to start dismantling the fuse box etc, surely this isn't right??

Edit: I've just gone out to check again, and the loom definitely merges into a larger wiring harness which goes up under the dash or leads around to the front of the fuse box.

Where does the actual brake loom plug connect to? There are a bunch of plugs connecting at the front of the fuse box but none of them match the 4 wire plug if the loom. Does this fix still work on > 2008 model C4?

Edit 2(!): forgot to ask, is the loom actually important ? The guide mentions it contains a resistor and it does feel like something under the wrap like that. Would the switch alone fix this problem? I won't have a chance to get on open road to test the cruise control for a week or so and anxious to sort it

Cheers for any help
T0M   
Sun Feb 03 2013, 12:14pm
Member No: #17405
Joined: Jan 17 2011
Location: Lincoln
Hi, did the switch alone rectify the fault?
wired00   
Sun Feb 03 2013, 03:58pm
Member No: #28852
Joined: Jan 08 2013
Location: Sydney
T0M wrote ...

Hi, did the switch alone rectify the fault?


Sry I was meant to say in here...

No luck. I went on a long trip a week ago and on the freeway, again...fault with cruise control. really disappointed. I've looked a couple times there is simply no easy way to replace the harness on my Australian C4 hatch. The harness goes from the back of the switch right up behind the fuse box into another much larger harness.

What about yours is it easy to access where it connects? I just need to know where it plugs in so i can trace it back Even if i could unplug the old one and bypass it i'd be happy.

Otherwise I'll be forced to have citroen charge me an arm and a leg for the repair

Edit: the other thing I'll try is cleaning the steering wheel switches with contact cleaner but I'm doubtful
T0M   
Mon Feb 04 2013, 05:44pm
Member No: #17405
Joined: Jan 17 2011
Location: Lincoln
I ordered and fitted the switch and harness kit today, part number was 453466 and it was about 30 quid. The wiring part of the kit was an 8 inch extension to the existing loom and has a component built into it. You just plug it in between the car and the new switch.

My thoughts are, the kit is more a mod than a replacement for a faulty part. The switch appeared to be a direct replacement, the old one didn't appear to be faulty as such. After scratching my head a bit I think it's to address a switch design problem.

The switch has four pins, one pair normally closed and one pair normally open. With the brake pedal released the switch is pressed. When you operate the pedal, the plunger is let out, this makes one pair and breaks the second. As a guess the issue is that sometimes there is a discrepancy between breaking on one pair before making on the other pair which throws an anomoly. The switch contacts are quite large so there could be an amount of float or interference. It could even just be a dirty switch action.

I suspect the new switch is either identical or slightly redesigned so there is more of a gap between the two positions. The loom part probably just has a capacitor in it to buffer the switch changeover. It seems to work anyway as the fault is gone! An error in signal from this switch seems to affect all sorts of things from ABS to depollution (speed control etc.)

Another observation, the switch has a little collar which operates when it is fitted into its mount. This has the effect of obstructing the throw of the switch until it is fully home, this allows the plunger to self adjust on its ratchet thingy on insertion without bottoming out the switch itself. When it's all the way home, you turn it clockwise, the collar operates and clicks into place (out of the way) allowing the last 3mm or so movement in the switch. So the plunger should probably be left all the way out and the switch just fitted and allowed to self adjust.

Sorry if none of that makes sense, let me know if you have any questions.
2 User said Thank You to T0M for this Post :
 Dave_Retired. (05 Feb 2013 : 01:55) , JVT (19 May 2016 : 15:13)
wired00   
Mon Feb 04 2013, 05:56pm
Member No: #28852
Joined: Jan 08 2013
Location: Sydney
omg, wait a minute are you saying you simply plug the harness/loom *Between* the already existing cable and the switch...it doesn't actually replace anything? If thats the case I'm such a nob haha. Yeh I also read someone saying the loom had some capacitor in there, but when i read that I always assumed (never assume?) that it was replacing a loom *without* the capacitor.

Also regarding the plunger action on the switch, yeah thats what i did, left it fully out and let it set to the correct length itself.

I'll go out and check the car in a minute

Edit: heh, so i just went out, pulled off panel, plugged the loom is as an *extension* not *replacement* , face palmed myself.

Thank you, You probably saved me a lot of cash because I have it booked for a service next week and citroen probably would have charged me a fortune to fix this.

Edit2, well this is the wording that threw me off! : "The loom simply plugs in to replace the old one." It doesn't replace it extends

- Click Here -
1 User said Thank You to wired00 for this Post :
 Battenburg (05 Sep 2015 : 05:18)
T0M   
Mon Feb 04 2013, 06:38pm
Member No: #17405
Joined: Jan 17 2011
Location: Lincoln
Cool, that's a result then, hopefully the fault is gone! Yeah like I said it took a bit of head scratching, I read it the same way. That wiring harness in the kit is basically just a way of introducing that one little component into the system.
wired00   
Mon Feb 04 2013, 06:45pm
Member No: #28852
Joined: Jan 08 2013
Location: Sydney
Yeah I'll go for a long drive this weekend fingers crossed too, Yep I fully understand it now, that little capacitor or whatever component in that loom is hopefully the money part and certainly missing when i last went for a test drive
wired00   
Tue Apr 09 2013, 07:55pm
Member No: #28852
Joined: Jan 08 2013
Location: Sydney
Thought I'd post back about this one even if really delayed

Well it's all fixed finally.

Also though I discovered I was getting an emissions fault and when getting it serviced by a local diesel place they found that a vacuum box had fallen lose and melted. This vacuum box was responsible for actuating the solenoid on the turbo or some such. Basically this resulted in a $40 part preventing my turbo from work at all. After this was fixed my engine now performs what feels like AT LEAST 2x the power of how its been since I owned it haha! Basically the previous owner must have experienced this too. I just thought the slow performance of my C4 was a result of it being a diesel as this was the first diesel I've owned.

Anyway it's performing perfectly now, couldn't be happier
1 User said Thank You to wired00 for this Post :
 Spacetechy (31 Jul 2015 : 08:14)
Battenburg   
Sat Sep 05 2015, 05:18am
Member No: #41938
Joined: Sep 05 2015
Location: Warrington, England
New here - I have a C4GP 2009.
Thanks to everyone for the information on this site (especially the part about the loom plugging in as an extension). I have had the same problem as most others: Handbrake faulty, ESR/ABS light, the word "SERVICE" and only able to operate the handbrake manually. I have bought the brake switch (453466) for £20 which comes with loom.

My question is, after replacing the switch and adding in the loom, should all the faults reset automatically, or will it be need to be reset electronically? I have replaced mine and still have all the same warning lights. Thanks.
Dave_Retired.   
Sat Sep 05 2015, 06:01am

Member No: #1
Joined: Aug 07 2006
Location: Northumberland
Simply replace the existing switch and wiring loom with the new one.

That's it.

Fault log may still show an error unless the battery is disconnected for 15 minutes to clear the log but the error should go away.

If not, then there is somethinge else amiss.
1 User said Thank You to Dave_Retired. for this Post :
 Battenburg (05 Sep 2015 : 06:19)
Battenburg   
Sat Sep 05 2015, 06:19am
Member No: #41938
Joined: Sep 05 2015
Location: Warrington, England
Looks like something else may be wrong then! Back to the forums to see...
Thanks.
polestarboy   
Sat Sep 05 2015, 08:42am
Member No: #33110
Joined: Nov 06 2013
Location: uk barnsley
Get a code reader it may shed a little light on it!
Battenburg   
Sat Sep 05 2015, 08:49am
Member No: #41938
Joined: Sep 05 2015
Location: Warrington, England
Just correcting my post above - the fault list was:

Handbrake Faulty (auto handbrake off warning light is illuminated)
ESP/ASR braking system faulty (and ABS and ESP lights illuminated)
The word "SERVICE" appearing on the RHS of display panel.

Replacing the brake switch with the new switch and loom has not worked. Disconnecting the battery for 10mins and then reconnecting gives the same messages straight away.

I have tried searching the threads on here, and there is a suggestion that it could be an ABS sensor, but I cannot find any details of how to check these - any ideas/links to this, or other possible suggestions?

Also, probably unrelated, but I very recently unblocked the windscreen drains due to water flooding into the driver's (RH) side footwell.

Thanks for the help.
Battenburg   
Sat Sep 05 2015, 08:52am
Member No: #41938
Joined: Sep 05 2015
Location: Warrington, England
Re: Polestarboy: I am now considering buying a fault diagnosis system - apparently the Lexia3 and PP2000 seem to be good ?? - but it turns out researching buying these is also difficult (China vs non-China etc)...
I will update if I get anywhere! Thanks
Dave_Retired.   
Sat Sep 05 2015, 10:40am

Member No: #1
Joined: Aug 07 2006
Location: Northumberland
They all come from China. It's just that if you buy one and it's faulty it's far easier to return to a UK seller.

Some even test them to ensure that they are OK before selling on.
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