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How to remove Air Conditioning Condensor. C4 Hdi 110, DPFS, EGS, 2007

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Author Post
Fri May 25 2012, 05:34am
Member No: #18509
Joined: Mar 01 2011
Location: Scotland

I had a browse around the forum looking for a how-to on removing the air conditioning condensor but didn't find one...so here's a quick guide for the next person. My model is a 2007 1.6Hdi, 110bhp, EGS, DPFS.

At first glance it looks like you need to remove a fair bit of the front end and bumper etc but that's not the case. Be careful not to drop anything tho, as this'll save you removing the underbelly to retreive it. Also a handy tip might be to have a coulpe of large sheets of cardboard at hand to protect the radiator while you move it around. I did the job without this tho, and didn't damage anything.

1. Remove the top cover from the air intake pipe at the front right as you look under the bonnet. Remove the large air intake pipe too. It needs to turn slightly anti-clockwise where it meets the next coupling. If you can't get it out then remove the 1x10mm bolt holding it's vertical plastic bracket and remove the two complete. (You need this pipe out of your way to allow the radiator to move rearwards).

2. Remove the 2x10mm nuts securing the air conditioning pipes to the condensor. These are located to the left of the radiator (as you look under the bonnet), one near top, one near bottom. Pull the pipes rearwards to remove. They're a bit sticky due to the rubber seals, so a gentle wobble is required while you pull.

3. Remove the six black plastic clips securing the top of the grill to the crossmember and the headlights. They simply pull out by getting your fingernail under the inner part and pulling them upwards.

4. Carefully hold the grill/top of the bumper out towards the front to access and remove the 2xT30 torx screws pointing rearwards towards the rubber mounts for the radiator. If you feel you don't have enough forward movement to access these screws then remove the 2x10mm bolts securing the bonnet release mechanism and manipulate the mechanism, complete with cable still attatched, out of your way. If your torx screwdriver/socket is short in length you shouldn't need to do this tho.

5. Carefully push both radiator and condensor rearwards and inch or so, and remove the top radiator brackets, complete with their rubber mounts, to save them falling out.

6. Carefully lift the radiator straight upwards to unseat the bottom mounts (only an inch or so). These are "spikes" and simply sit into holes at the bottom. (You might need to also hold the condensor rearwards to do this). The radiator is now loose and can be moved out of your way a enough, but be cautious not to damage the delicate fins etc.

7. Carefully lift the condensor straight upwards and out. It's held in by similar spikes. Space is a little tight so move the radiator around a little as you do this.

8. Apply a band-aid to the scuffed section of your right forearm, in line with the heel of your hand, and approx half way down.

That's it. Seriously, this takes less than half an hour.

7 User said Thank You to alan333 for this Post :
 Dave_Retired. (26 May 2012 : 02:19) , ecsek (18 Jul 2013 : 02:48) , Ant1979 (17 May 2014 : 01:37) , Rlh (04 May 2015 : 14:56) , eric90low (30 Dec 2015 : 20:33) , roomster (22 Mar 2016 : 10:31) , Nick2185 (14 Jul 2017 : 16:17)
Sat May 26 2012, 02:20am

Member No: #1
Joined: Aug 07 2006
Location: Northumberland
Thanks for the information
1 User said Thank You to Dave_Retired. for this Post :
 Ant1979 (17 May 2014 : 01:37)
Mon May 04 2015, 03:01pm
Member No: #28006
Joined: Nov 01 2012
Location: Copenhagen
That's just what I have been looking for! I was told that it would cost aprox 4500 danish kr (450 British pounds) to get the Condenser fixed.... Found a new Valero Condenser 120 BP. So now I just need the band Aid

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