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C4 - DS4 Owners :: Forums :: Ice and Sat Nav Questions Coupe and Hatch Pre 2012 and C4 Picasso :: ICE / Sat Nav/Bluetooth etc.

New audio install, on going project. Update on page 3, LOTS OF PICS.

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riven1962   
Sat May 26 2012, 05:56am
Member No: #18905
Joined: Mar 23 2011
Location: Widnes, Cheshire
Looks like lots and lots of work, well done on geting it all done. Will it be all done for Donnington?
FakeConcern   
Sat May 26 2012, 08:01pm
Member No: #24127
Joined: Feb 05 2012
Location: Bexhill on Sea
That looks so good-bet it sounds so good too!
wozza   
Mon May 28 2012, 06:56pm

Member No: #2
Joined: Aug 12 2006
Location: Manchester
No idea how it sounds yet. Still a fair bit to do. In terms of building. Probably around 2 - 3 days of good building to be done. Including all the carpet trimming etc. And rerunning all the new cabling.

Some of it is already done, but I have upgraded a lot of the wiring as well. Then it is a case of getting the laptop hooked up and tuning the system.

Did a little bit on it today, worked out how I am going to mount the amps. As well as the little rack they are going to sit on. Would have taken me about 5 minutes to knock them up had the router been here, but alas it's at my friends place. So I had to do it with a drill and a file.

Took a fair bit longer as a result, but they are done now. Went to B&Q to try and get some bolts and a suitable washer to mount them. However as is usual with B&Q, they had everything in stock apart from the thing I wanted.

So going to have to go to another store tomorrow, see if I can pick up something that will work. So my rather rough amp mounts. with a rough idea of how they will be mounted.








This bit of MDF will then be mounted to the boot floor, then the mounts at the top. Then it will have a trim piece that fits over it and the amp to make it look nicer. All you can see at the moment is the main structure, there will be panels over everything hiding the wires and bits I don't want to be on show. Which is why I don't care if it looks a bit rubbish. No one is going to see it. Only going to be 3 panels on show. The false floor of the boot and the two new side panels. All of thee of which are yet to be made.
wozza   
Mon Jun 18 2012, 10:13pm

Member No: #2
Joined: Aug 12 2006
Location: Manchester
Attached mounts with a bolt and washer through a hole already in the car. And with the OEM carpet back in place. Rear speakers are also finished here and back in properly.




Had some issues with my earth connections. In that they would not fit on my JL ground lug.

Earth terminal.


JL lug problem.


Lot of filing later.




Sub box was taken out and carpeted. This was seriously difficult to get out, took two of us and we snapped my file using it to help lever the thing out. So a 3/4" thick steel file snapped due to how well in this box was without being bolted in, we had to use a jack to help pull it out. It's not finished and still not bolted in, but sits under some of the sheet metal and well. I am pretty much positive this thing would not come out even if the car was upside down. If I ever plan to remove it, it is going to need to be cut out of the car.




Amp racks being built.


Carpeting


Working on cooling for the amps. Ended up with just 2 fans at the top.



Sub box in with one of the amps.


Both in and sorting out the mess of cabling and getting the relays working etc.


Top sheet time.


Carpeted and working. As can be seen it isn't quite finished yet. Still some cosmetic stuff to do and protection for the sub to be sorted. I want to actually be able to use the boot. However for now, I am done.

Those of you who heard it at FCS will know just how loud and clear it plays and will be aware that I was a mid range down after the front drivers side had decided the glue wasn't going to hold the cone to the coil any more. Going to speak to JL see if they can help me out there though. Suffice to say it can set off car alarms and due to all the sound deadening and proofing even when cranked inside the car, outside unless doors /windows and boot are open it is surprisingly quiet. But the entire car will flex from the bass when cranked up. The rear bumper moves, the hatch moves etc. Not bad from one little subwoofer.

1 User said Thank You to wozza for this Post :
  (19 Jun 2012 : 00:09)
CamM   
Tue Jun 19 2012, 10:43am

Member No: #19249
Joined: Apr 13 2011
Location: Sydney
Really impressive build Tom!!
Mk3_Singh   
Fri Aug 03 2012, 12:33pm
Member No: #25291
Joined: Apr 19 2012
Location: Slough, UK
Nice to see another audio freak, Ive had a range of setups in all my cars (... mk3 Golf, Mk4 Polo), and currently have an on going project in the c4.

90% there, just the finishing touches, then ill stick up a thread.

Was running a JL 15W0V2 in the polo, in a 4.22 cu ft ported box (34hz), was very impressed !

These W7's are absolutely crazy, heard 3 of them in Car Audio Securities demo car.

wozza   
Fri Aug 03 2012, 03:50pm

Member No: #2
Joined: Aug 12 2006
Location: Manchester
It's not finished yet, still more to do and I want to do more with the front end. But that means I need another amp and some new mids.

I want to do some proper A pillar builds and go 3 way active front end. Would also need a new processor though for that.

The W7 does sound pretty good, just not quite got the tuning perfect on it. So I need to adjust the port. Then it is little trim bits to get it all covered up, tidying bits up etc.

At the moment though had to get some bits on the car fixed and also saving for a holiday so not really had the time to sort it out.
Mk3_Singh   
Fri Aug 03 2012, 11:32pm
Member No: #25291
Joined: Apr 19 2012
Location: Slough, UK
If you want SQ as well as SPL, you really need a slot ported box. A box like that isnt making the most of high end sub you are running.

However that might go against the ''space saving'' aspect of your build.

Never the less, it looks great and must sound decent too ! ... take your time, and dont rush it (i rushed the finishing touches, and am not happy with the work, hence why I'm re doing the last 10%)

... in my build ive combined the best of both worlds (slot port but also space efficient) ... I've got a feeling you'll find mine quite interesting !

wozza   
Sat Aug 04 2012, 12:11am

Member No: #2
Joined: Aug 12 2006
Location: Manchester
It's already ported, very little difference between slot and round in terms of SQ or SPL. Only difference is that I had to go with two ports rather than one to keep port noise down. However it was all modelled and taken into account before I started building.

Not sure what the issue with the box is, might just be the box is too small. I never had the chance to fill it up with anything to calculate final volume. Bit hard with a box like this to calculate as well. So my port length is probably off a bit too. If it is too small I can fix that by poly stuffing it. And then alter port length afterwards to get its tuning right.

It's one of the things to fix at a later date. Right now though the exhaust needs doing and no idea how much that will cost exactly. Booked to get done next Thursday so depending on that then I will start playing with the audio again.
Mk3_Singh   
Sat Aug 04 2012, 10:51pm
Member No: #25291
Joined: Apr 19 2012
Location: Slough, UK
If you ever decide to make a proper mdf/birchwood box for the w7 read on :

You might find this link interesting : - Click Here -


Input your box and port dimensions, play about with it till you hit the recommended box voloume (1.4cu ft i believe for the W7), and the require tuning frequency. (google what the frequency should be according to the type of music you listen to, all mine, all my boxes are tuned to 34 - 40hz)

Really interesting helpful tool ! Just print it out when your done, and show it to B&Q, they get all your sheets cut usually for no charge.


I also have a dedicated windows program that does the same job, but is alot more technical, let me know if you want a copy or link.
wozza   
Sun Aug 05 2012, 02:37am

Member No: #2
Joined: Aug 12 2006
Location: Manchester
I used winISD to design the box that is in it now. Not the first box I have built did one for my mate with two cervin Vega strokers. That was a big box and slot ported. That was loud! Unfortunately he didn't sound deaden the car so it just rattled to [%*^#@!].


Mine was never built to be all out SPL. Just built to be a good daily driver with oomph. Until I can go fully active front end 4.1 set up. That's the goal as I do watch films in the car do I want the surround sound. As in a small environment like a car it sound brilliant.
dom160081   
Sat Jun 01 2024, 08:03pm
Member No: #58774
Joined: Sep 11 2021
Location: Greece
wozza wrote ...

I used winISD to design the box that is in it now. Not the first box I have built did one for my mate with two cervin Vega strokers. That was a big box and slot ported. That was loud! Unfortunately he didn't sound deaden the car so it just rattled to [%*^#@!].


Mine was never built to be all out SPL. Just built to be a good daily driver with oomph. Until I can go fully active front end 4.1 set up. That's the goal as I do watch films in the car do I want the surround sound. As in a small environment like a car it sound brilliant.


Is there any chance to upload the photos again?
specifically the ones that show how you reach the rear speakers
Thank you
UDD104   
Tue May 13 2025, 03:58am
Member No: #62888
Joined: Feb 27 2025
Location: Kew East
The photos are "temporarily unavailable". Just wondering if they can be refreshed and made available? Would be very helpful!

wozza wrote ...

Just bumping this again.

First off though as many people have been curious about this over the years and I don't think we actually have a proper guide for it....

How to access your rear speakers in a Coupe.

Actually quite easy when you know how to do it.

First off you need to remove the T20 screw in the following area. Obviously the parcel shelf has to come out first.


Then you need to remove the rubber seal for the boot, it simply pulls away it is stuck in sections with an adhesive that will still work again when you replace it. Just yank it off though to remove it.





Now you should have access to the C Pillar trim section.



A little pressure will start to pull it away to show which way it will come off. It basically folds down towards the speaker cover. It is held on by clips and by little tabs which lock into the speaker cover on the bottom.


Just yank it so it comes away from the frame work, don't worry about breaking anything in terms of clips etc. Just give it a good pull downwards. Citroen were actually good enough to use a metal clip on this part.



Now you should be left with this.


What you want to do now is grab here and basically just pull straight up.


The top cover should now come away quite easily. Just don't be too hard with this.


The reason I say not to be too hard is here. Basically the top cover is also held in place by a clip from the rear interior passenger panel. It clips through the top speaker cover.




Basically just have to pull it away, again the clip there is quite a sturdy one. It is however still plastic.


One that is done you can then just push the top cover to the side to get to the speaker.


Refit is obviously the reverse of taking it apart, just be sure to give the panels a bit of a smack once you are sure they are in the right positions to get the clips back in. Quite easy once you know how and doesn't take long either. First time would say 45 minutes to an hour to do both sides. After that 20 minutes if that. Took me less than 20 today to do it and that was refitting those speakers in the pictures with all new cabling etc.

BigJohnD   
Thu May 29 2025, 10:29am

Member No: #82
Joined: Jan 22 2007
Location: Hoylake
Well they're 13 years old now. Probably scrolled off or deleted.
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