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We got there in the end! (Replacing Bosch rear discs and pads - with photos)

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BigJohnD   
Thu Jul 08 2010, 05:32pm

Member No: #82
Joined: Jan 22 2007
Location: Hoylake
Today Barrie (and I, but mostly Barrie) replaced the rear discs and pads on my 55 diesel VTR+ after 74,000 miles, in time for my 75,000 miles service.



First all, thanks to Alex (aka amjl2000) for his excellent How To - Click Here - on changing the rear discs and pads, and I'm going to make a few observations from our experience today.

The job is technically very straightforward:

1. Jack up car, make safe and remove rear wheel.

2. With a 13mm spanner, remove two bolts retaining the floating calliper.

3. With a T50 Torx, remove the two set screws fixing the piston/calliper to the back plate.


4. Push out the pads and retaining springs, and remove floating part, being careful with the fixed part, as that's now hanging on the hydraulic pipe and is still attached to the handbrake cable, which doesn't need to be disconnected.



5. Remove the cap over the retaining nut in the centre of the disc, and with a 32mm socket, undo the nut. (Our socket had a ¾" drive so an adaptor to ½" was needed.)

6. Remove disc.

7. Put on new disc, tighten nut to 90Nm + 30°. Lock the nut using a nail punch. Replace cap.

8. With piston rewind tool, push piston back into cylinder, keeping an eye on the fluid level under the bonnet.

9. Put new springs and pads into calliper and re-assemble with new bolt, using Copaslip and Loctite appropriately.

10. Check everything before putting wheel back on, and lower car to the ground.

11. Pull up the handbrake several times to take up slack and pump the brake pedal until things stiffen up. Check fluid reservoir under bonnet.

12. Go for test drive to initially bed in the pads and check for faults, squealing, etc.


Sounds simple, doesn't it? Right, here we go!

An IMPACT DRIVER is needed to remove the Loctited T50 set screws. After 70,000+ plus miles of heat, frost, filth and wet, you just can not release them using a basic ratchet or similar. We, (well Barrie) was battering the impact driver with a 4lb lump hammer and almost knocked the car off the stand before we could turn them with a massive extension on the Torx bit. The nearside was made more difficult because of the proximity of the exhaust.



Secondly, to rewind the pistons, a LEFT-HANDED rewind tool is essential to push the RH/driver's side piston home. If you do not have a left-handed rewind tool, do not start this job! Your car will be stranded on the stands until you get one - guess how we found that out! The piston will NOT rotate clockwise, and it cannot be pushed straight in - it must be rotated anti-clockwise into the cylinder.

Yes, we didn't have a L/H rewind tool, but eventually found a guy in Wheels Auto Parts & Accessories in Chorley who a) believed us when we said we wanted a L/H rewind tool (the bloke in Halfrauds thought it was a wind-up), and b) found one for us in two hours (which meant we had time for several nice coffees and a long chat!

The Left-handed Piston Rewind Tool


This not the best of close-ups, but note the "L" to indicate Left hand thread.


Details of the tool we used. Note it specifies C5, and there's no reference to a C4. It might make things easier if you're searching for the tool to talk about a C5.


Some more photos:

Old and new discs.


These were genuine Citroën, part number 4249.34 and were a straight swap, complete with wheel bearing and ABS ring, clearly visible in the photo. (I wasn't sure about Alex's comments about the ABS ring - everything is as it should be…)


New pads. Part Number 4254.76
Note plastic cover over sticky anti-squeal shim.


Old pads, down to a couple of mm. Note the C4 does not have a pad wear indicator system.
After 74,000 miles, the anti-squeal shims fell off and almost disintegrated!


Done! Nice new shiny discs.


During the journey home from Barrie's, the pedal firmed up nicely and the pull on the handbrake returned to normal. There was no squealing or ABS/brake warnings.

The parts were supplied by [ Dealer 1 ] at a big discount (I collected them in person to save on postage - these things are heavy) and saved around two hours labour time, which at Citroën dealer rates is probably £200.

So thanks again to Barrie for his great help - I'd never have done this without him - and to Theresa for help, tolerance and excellent cups of coffee.
3 User said Thank You to BigJohnD for this Post :
 Ballistic (23 Mar 2011 : 18:55) ,  (07 May 2012 : 07:22) , niamhsdad (13 Mar 2013 : 13:31)
Dave_Retired.   
Fri Jul 09 2010, 01:41am

Member No: #1
Joined: Aug 07 2006
Location: Northumberland
Nice tutorial guys, have added it to the archive as a printable .pdf - Click Here -
2 User said Thank You to Dave_Retired. for this Post :
  (07 May 2012 : 07:22) , niamhsdad (13 Mar 2013 : 13:31)
BigJohnD   
Fri Jul 09 2010, 02:24am

Member No: #82
Joined: Jan 22 2007
Location: Hoylake
Cheers, Dave! And thanks again to Barrie.
Ham   
Fri Jul 09 2010, 09:59am

Member No: #69
Joined: Jan 10 2007
Location: Derby, England
Should of painted your callipers red John!
How much are the tools for winding in the pistons?
BigJohnD   
Fri Jul 09 2010, 10:16am

Member No: #82
Joined: Jan 22 2007
Location: Hoylake
Ham wrote ...

Should of painted your callipers red John!

With white Liver Birds!

Ham wrote ...

how much are the tools for winding in the pistons?

Good question.

The basic RH tool is around £18 in Halfrauds and the LH about £29, less easy to find.

The full professional kit that'll fit most cars, both LH and RH, is around £40.

More here: - Click Here -
amjl2000   
Fri Jul 09 2010, 11:03am
Member No: #5047
Joined: Aug 22 2008
Location: s wales
I like this guide - very comprehensive.
As I mentioned, using a RH rewind tool to do the LH is possible (I'm not the only one who's done it), though certainly not easy! For ease of use, then having a pair of tools is definitely the way to go!

Also, I got my pads/disks from EBC - the discs did not come with the ABS ring on - the Citroen ones obviously do!

No overheating wheels? You're lucky...
Sonny   
Fri Jul 09 2010, 01:46pm
Wow those rear pads are *******

I changed mine a few months back.. really simple with the right tools.
barrie   
Fri Jul 09 2010, 02:44pm
BigJohnD wrote ...

Ham wrote ...

Should of painted your callipers red John!

With white Liver Birds!
Ham wrote ...

how much are the tools for winding in the pistons?

Good question.

The basic RH tool is around £18 in Halfrauds and the LH about £29, less easy to find.

The full professional kit that'll fit most cars, both LH and RH, is around £40.

More here: - Click Here -

I've found one on ebay for £12.99

- Click Here -

Barrie
BigJohnD   
Fri Jul 09 2010, 05:34pm

Member No: #82
Joined: Jan 22 2007
Location: Hoylake
Hindsight is wonderful!

amjl2000 wrote ...

I like this guide - very comprehensive.
As I mentioned, using a RH rewind tool to do the LH is possible (I'm not the only one who's done it), though certainly not easy! For ease of use, then having a pair of tools is definitely the way to go!
Also, I got my pads/disks from EBC - the discs did not come with the ABS ring on - the Citroen ones obviously do!

No overheating wheels? You're lucky...

There was some possible evidence of over-heating as the anti-squeal shims looked blued, but nothing else.

Barrie and I tried for some time to get the RH piston rewind to push the LH piston in, but without success. It was SO easy with the proper tool it was embarrassing!.

And personally, I'd recommend the genuine Citroën/PSA discs for convenience and knowing they're guaranteed.

Sonny wrote ...

Wow those rear pads are *******

I changed mine a few months back.. really simple with the right tools.

It sure is!
gmerry   
Fri Jul 09 2010, 06:01pm
Member No: #11625
Joined: Nov 30 2009
Location: aberdeen
Picture of tool made up specially for removing those tight torx scews

Rgards
G


ronos   
Sun Jul 11 2010, 01:12pm
Member No: #12853
Joined: Mar 13 2010
Location: cumbria
Nice photo's well explained, is the hub nut 32mm on my C4GP exclusive it's not 32mm but look like 36mm
888rusty   
Wed Mar 23 2011, 02:57pm
I'm about to go through the dirty deed of changing both discs (Bearings & ABS incld) as I've been told they are on their (Bearings) way out & that's the reason for cabin noise. The threads I've read (except this 1) had not mentioned that 2 Re-wind tools are required LH & RH. I've just bought a Re-wind set off ebay for 32.99 incldg del & will update results when job completed. Nervous but confident (sort of), after reading all threads pertaining to this issue.
Ham   
Wed Mar 23 2011, 04:30pm

Member No: #69
Joined: Jan 10 2007
Location: Derby, England
The hardest bit of the job is the torx bolts, if you were only changing pads its so easy.
You'll be fine!
888rusty   
Mon Mar 28 2011, 05:36am
Completed the job & I have to say I needn't have been nervous. It was fairly straight forward, everything undone without to much effort.

The rewind set for the money was more than adequate, ebay £32.98 sold by Seller 'essential_goodies_247' & delivery was quick. Discs also off ebay £36.50 (extremely lucky) - part No 4246 Z9 - this is the old part No for discs with 25mm bearing.

Bought Apec lucas type pads £23.20. Hub nut & cap x 2 from Citroen £8.60 (suppose could use the old nut). Axel stands, Hydraulic jack, spanner, T50, 32mm or AF 1¼ Socket , wirebrush, towels.

also very importantly....my cabin noise has gone, wonderful.

A BIG thanks to all C4owners members for making it achievable for us less mechanical to save money.


C4 VTR+ 110hdi 05


2 User said Thank You to for this Post :
 BigJohnD (07 May 2011 : 03:23) , scobydo (02 Sep 2013 : 03:24)
Ham   
Mon Mar 28 2011, 09:35am

Member No: #69
Joined: Jan 10 2007
Location: Derby, England
Glad we are here to help!
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