FAQ #108 | |
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Find out the interval and costs for a C4 Particulate filter replacement | |
Kenny Carwash wrote ... Has anyone else replaced their FAP yet? The handbook says that is should be replaced at 75,000 miles, which I'll hit in the next 12 months and I'm trying to work out how much it will cost. I gather that a new one is about £600, but I've heard that they send the old ones back to France where they're cleaned out and made available as 'reconditioned' units for about half the price. I know they did that for the old C5s with the earlier type of FAP, but I'm not sure if they still do it. Has anyone been able to get a recon particulate filter for the C4? If it's still possible to get one then I'll set the money aside now, but if I'm looking at full whack then I'll have to seriously consider offloading the car in the next six months. This is confusing.. but here goes! The 2,0HDi is on 20,000 intervals, so the official replacement interval is 80,000 up to RP number 10380. (75,000 on the 1.6HDi) There's a bit of overlap between RP 10381 and 10388 when they were switching to 120,000 (112,500 on 1.6HDi) intervals and anything from 10389 is definitely 120,000 (112,500 on 1.6HDi) intervals for replacement of the filter, with just the fluid being topped up at 80,000. (75,000 for 1.6HDi) Exchange filters are available, but they carry a huge surcharge (APPROX £500 + VAT) so it may be best to have your old one off ready to give to the dealer when you pick the new one up... either that or find a friendly dealer that will trust you to bring the old unit back! Now picking a filter at random to give you an idea of price (there are a fair few options depending on chassis number and engine size etc.) but an exchange FAP filter will be anything from around £200 inc VAT - a brand new one costing in the region of £600 as you say. Sorry if this isn't clear, I'm rush typing it at the minute... if anyone wants any clarification feel free to ask further questions in this forum thread - Click Here - How do I know if a car has a Particulate Filter? Is my HDi the 92 or 110bhp version or does it have a particulate filter? Easiest way will be to check the VIN when you're at the car. Look in the bottom right hand corner of the windscreen behind the passenger wiper arm. Failing that, depending how efficient the original selling dealer was, it should be written in the front of the service book. The VIN will read:- VF7 **9HX* ******** if it's the 92hp or:- VF7 **9HY* ******** if it's the 110hp without particle filter or:- VF7 **9HZ* ******** if it's the 110hp with particle filter. 2.0 HDi VF7 **RHR* ******** if it's the 138hp with particle filter. For Diesel vehicles with Particle Filter, in order to optimise the operation of the PEFs in the long term, use of the low ash content oil TOTAL ACTIVA INEO ECS for France and TOTAL QUARTZ INEO ECS outside France is recommended more particularly ( Or any other oils with equivalent characteristics ) If your unsure what a Diesel Particulate Filter is or does then read - Click Here - Please Note: the addives used vary depending on the cars RPO number and can NOT be mixed The additive DPX42 must be used for vehicles with additive filter up to RPO 9491Caution: from RPO number 9492 the additive used corresponds to the 'clickfit' union on the additive reservoir.
Topping up/replacing the Fluid can be a DIY job Tomo1971 wrote ... If your car is a later model, it may have the pouch, rather than a refillable container. Mine was a Sept 08 model and had a pouch, so the following applied..... The fluid is supplied by Citroen in a bag, like a blood bag or saline bag you see at the hospitals. They may supply it 'per litre' but that will be for other models. When I did mine, I cant see any way of refilling the existing 'bag'. They are also prone to leaking. So, yes, they are a VERY VERY simple job to do yourself. *Jack the car up at the rear passanger side safely, using axle stands etc. * Near to the fuel tank is a plastic container that has a honeycomb pattern on it and a metal bar helping to secure it to the underside. This is the box where the fluid bag is housed. *You will see an electrical connection and a fluid pipe going into one end, there is a cover over this (or should be, it could of been damaged). Think it slides off. Once off, disconnect the electrical and fluid pipes. From memory they are on spring clips, with areas where you press in and then pull to remove (will be obvious once you see) *Remove the screws you see affixing the whole assembly to the body work, noting if any are different sizes. Think there are three. *Once on a bench, you will see the honeycomb part is actually the lid and is secured on with several long bolts. Apparently, these are known to seize. You may want to consider replacing these. *Once open, the bag is attached in a similar manor to the external pipe to the pump. Release this, release the obvious securing clip and then remove. *Fitting the new bag is basically the same. I never did my own, but shortly after getting a dealer to do it, the container was damaged while off road, so had to replace some of the sections of the container. I did wear gloves but there was no fluid leakage at all from any of the pipes. There was however some residue from when the previous bag had leaked before expiry. Going bag to the honeycomb section... the 'lid'... there is a metal cover that's now available that goes on top, to help protect the container. You may want to consider buying this as well, or indeed make one yourself. Once back together, you may need to get the counter reset at a dealer if you do not have access to 'Lexia'. |
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Views | 24657 (Unique 18711) |
Member Rating : | 9.1 - 12 votes |
FAQ Posted by | Phil |
Info | Created: 10 November 2008 Last Updated: 13 October 2013 |